033002 We arose at the same time, bathed, and had a quick breakfast in order to make as early a visit as possible to the Indian River which is supposed to have parrots which visit it in the mornings. We had to leave poor Debbie behind with a case of Montezuma's revenge and the rest of us dinghied the long distance to the mouth of the river.

We saw very significant evidence of the power of the hurricane. Huge rusty metal freighters were washed up on shore within just feet of some of the houses and it's easy to believe that many structures were wiped out. The jetty was also a twisted mess of concrete and metal which had formed a little bay behind which we met our guide, David.

He pulled is dory around and we climbed aboard for a half hour rowing up the river. Very peaceful and quiet and our guide was knowledgeable and friendly. We saw green-backed and great white herons, belted and ringed kingfishers, some kind of dove, gray kingbirds, rednecked pigeons (large!), lots of bananaquits and antillean crested hummies.

The river gets too shallow and rocky past a certain point so they drop you off at a lovely covered structure (reminiscent of the lunch place in the g's) with benches and a small bar for juices. We, instead wandered off down the trails and into the actual bush marveling at the redblood trees, vines, and tropical plants teeming on every side. Saw several lizards and a new hummingbird on our walk back.

Stopped for some juice and David had made origami fish and birds on a thin stick for PLP and me out of pineapple leaf fronds. Very clever. Rowed back down the river enjoying the cool peacefulness and thankful for cloud cover then made our way back to the boat.

Debbie was better, but not fully recovered. We set sail from Portsmouth feeling like we'd all return there again if given the opportunity. Set sail for Iles des Saintes which is a cluster of islands just off the south end of Guadeloupe. The cloudiness we'd left behind developed into a large rainstorm, but we'd escaped in time to avoid a wetting.

Les Saints is lovely with many small rough islands in a general circular pattern. The trees are blown almost completely sideways with the force of the eastern wind. There was a large cruise ship (Club Med 2) just outside the bay where we moored, but luckily it sailed off shortly after we arrived taking its hordes of passengers with it.

Bourg des Saints is the main city and is very cosmopolitan in comparison to some of the other island towns we've visited. We had heard from Nick about a super walk he'd taken with Jackie on this island so we determined to go ashore and explore. Left Patti and Bill in the town to explore (we'd meet them in a bar, naturally) and Tim, S&D and I took the first segment of the trail which leads through the charmingly clean, narrow streets. Tiny little homes with tiny little yards, the occasional dog, loads of flowering plants and colorful crotons. Soon we encountered chickens and sheep and even a cow or two (The urban section of town).

We eventually followed the trail off of the paved roads to Pompierre Beach. Large public beach on a secluded cove with many palms and covered areas for shade. The trail actually wound along beneath the cliff right next to the water and we got our feet wet making our way along. The trail soon turned upward and we climbed to the top for our first glimpse of this series of islands.

The trail continued up and down to various heights along the leeward side of the island to a point where we could overlook the airport (short!) and a beautiful beach below [Plage de Grande-Anse]. The trail then split (according to the map) one piece heading down to that lovely beach and one to the side of the airport and back to town.

Somehow we got ourselves lost and instead of heading back to town found ourselves traveling on a less well-cared for track through clever gates (held closed by bicycle innertubes) around chicken coops complete with chicks and big black roosters with blue feet. We also made our way through fields which had been clipped to nothing by the local goats (several bouncy babies so cute that Patti would have hugged them immediately. )

Finally found ourselves making our way down through someone's yard guarded by the fattest black dog I've seen! Barked up a storm, but the back end was wiggly so no real threat. Found the street and made or way back to the main thoroughfare to discover P & Bill on the beach side of a large covered bar.

Tim bought us all a yummy ice-cream which tasted just right. We then followed it with more Planter's punches while we watched the sun set over the harbor. Patti said that most of the shops were oriented toward cheap, touristy stuff so there was nothing worth purchasing.

Back to the dinghy at the public dock but instead found ourselves watching a couple of games of boulles which is sort of like marbles with the object being to knock the other fellow's ball (about the size of a hardball) out of the center so your ball remains closest to the mark. It takes a lot of skill to stand 20' away and lob your ball in order to knock 2 or 3 away and leave yours in.

Out to the boat and a much appreciated dip in the ocean. I had slid a couple of times down the mountain trail and had crumpled a toe and stubbed the big one so a cooling dip in the water was appreciated. Debbie still feeling a little punky so she lay down for awhile, arising just in time for us to go to dinner. (She stayed and guarded Avrion.

Took the dinghy directly to the beach under the restaurant which was probably the nicest one we'd been to in terms of atmosphere and service. I had Kingfish with a chive cream sauce, Scott had pasta w/cream and smoked fish. Patti had a steak with mushroom sauce, Bill had chicken with coconut while Tim had another fish pizza. Pina coladas were attempted, but were almost too rich to drink. I've grown quite fond of a local beer called Carib and tend to order it at any opportunity.

A brief squall came in while we dined, but was not wet enough to cause us to request they cover the open air verandah-style windows. Back to the boat where Debbie had done a splendid job ensuring that most of our beds were still dry from unclosed hatches. To bed.
[smk]