032902 The wind was our friend last night. The angle was just right to keep us at right angles to the swell so we weren't rolling back and forth constantly concerned about being tossed out.

A dip for the usual three, breakfast which included toast and lovely orange marmalade and we began the longest sailing day of the trip. The winds proved fickle shortly after we left port as Tim expected the usual brisk easterners as soon as we cleared the north end of the island. Instead, we got very little of anything and we spend half and hour letting out jibs and mains and staysails then cranking them back in, trying to catch enough wind to make it worthwhile. We had a long way to sail to get to the north end of Dominica and needed to go at a reasonable speed. We motored for half an hour then eventually we caught a west wind, completely confounding Tim, which carried us for a couple of hours before the normal eastern winds picked up.

We sailed through lunch, recapping our salad of the day before (there are always occasional breaks for melon and/or pineapple.) Some of us read, some of us whale watched, some of us slept and most of it under the full sun! Shortly after lunch Tim sang out that dolphins were off the bow and we watched them bouncing away into the distance. He also spotted a Pilot whale which came right by the starboard side, rolling it head around to cock a curious eye.

When we reached the southern tip of Dominica we made a brief tour of Soufriere Bay which is inside an old volcano then proceeded north again. The swells had diminished enough to calm any upset stomachs and we had a pleasant if steamy couple of hours into Portsmouth. We even skirted a small rain shower which gave us a few refreshing raindrops.

Dominica is one o those countries were the natives descend upon you trying to sell their services before you're even moored. Tim had to fend off 3 dinghies at once by telling them we were not interested in their wares, their suggestions for restaurants and tips for tours. We had another leisurely swim, playing ride the anchor chain while Patti snorkeled around us.

We had thought of going to a local restaurant for diner, but its lights turned out while we were still having our rum & cokes so we decided to try a restaurant that one of the locals who met us as we arrived had recommended. It was just the front porch of the house, extended and covered, right on the beach. Limited menu since the cook was his wife and the servers his children. But we had one of our better dinners with dorad fish in alum foil with tomatoes and onions done over the fire, rice with veggies, a chopped cabbage and carrot slaw-like salad with lots of fresh parsley and 4 different types of boiled potatoes. Starch for Patti! Everything came with Creole sauce and ahi to add savory. This was the 3rd and 4th different kind of rum punch we'd tasted (the 2nd helping was quite unlike the first which had been almost cinnamony/nutmeggy.) We were entertained by the mothercat and 3 kittens that gamboled about the floor and under our legs. There was also a sheepish dog who barked periodically to keep us aware of his guardianship.

Back to the boat for a nightcap (though why, I don't know!) and the soundest sleep I've had so far.
[smk]