03/14/00 Tuesday - Up at the usual 5:45 to be ready for breakfast at 6:15. Most of us meet topside for a quick cup of coffee and to the survey the area. This morning we were moored opposite the distinctive pinnacle which so often identifies pictures of the Galapagos. We had a mixture of peppers, tomatoes and scrambled eggs, toast and pina to augment the cereal course this morning.

We disembarked for the stairway to the top of Bartolomé, but saw that many other tourists from a nearby cruise ship were doing the same. Instead we decided to take the panga on a quick tour of the rocky cliff edges around the island to see if we could spot more pinguin. No luck, but it did mean that most of the other tourists were well on their way up the volcano before we even landed. Juan is a very knowledgeable guy and pointed out the 4 different types of volacano products: dust, ash, lapilli , and bombs. as well as describing the different methods of delivery from the mouth of the volcano: explosion, extrusion & intrusion. He also talked about the short food chain on this island. It's still a new island so there are relatively few flora and fauna here. There are some lovely subshrubs and groundcovers which struggle to survive and do so only because of their ability to take in water during La Garua (the mist-like rains that start in December).

We puffed our way to the top up the wide board stairs passing the remaining tourists who were on their way down so we had the top of the mountain to ourselves when we arrived. The view, as usual, was spectacular. We spent a long while up there just enjoying the scenery and conversing. We took our family picture at the top again like we had the last time. Sorry Ralph isn't here to make it complete.

We thumped down the stairs and came back to Sulidae to change into our swimming suits. Landed on the rusty beach and left our snorkeling gear there amongst the tourists while we walked a short, sandy trail up and over the spit of sand and mangroves that connects the two volcanoes. The lagoon on the other side is supposed to be a good place to spot rays and white-tipped sharks, but none there that day. Instead we were treated to the sight of at least 10 pinguins leaping about while fishing. Their bullet-shaped bodies don't appear to be very agile, but they literally fly through the water and can surprise you with their dexterity. It was a beautiful spot and we were surprised and sorry to see a panga from the cruise ship motor over and chase away the pinguins. Juan says this is a not a place where boats should be allowed so he'll ask the question when he returns to town on Friday.

We returned over the hill to the first beach, reclaimed our snorkeling equipment and left Mother to find some shade while we snorkeled. With so many people already snorkeling on the west side of the bay we decided to try the east side and were rewarded with a single pinguin, soaring amongst us for a minute before disappearing. Many intriguing rocky grottos to explore and we spotted at least 2 rays and many fish on that side. We swam across the bay and explored the west side after that encountering several other snorkelers who would periodically join our group then drift off. Juan spotted a small shark, but I wasn't around to see it. Once again, a super spot for seeing fish and investigating underwater lava niches. The current was surprisingly strong as we swam back to the beach around the Pinnacle. We had climbed all those stairs and marched up and down sandy hills, then swum quite a bit and there were more than my pair of knees wobbling as we stood on the sand waiting for our panga.

Back to the boat for juice and a rest before lunch. This meal was perfect for PLP. After regaining her strength, meat and potatoes was just what she was ready for. Alejandro treated us to chunks of beef in a tomato and pepper sauce, whipped potatoes, a purple cabbage, cucumber and hearts of palm salad, and some kind of large frijole in a white and slightly sweet sauce. And wonder of wonders! Chocolate pudding for dessert! I had seconds and begged them to save the rest for my dessert tonight. We retired to the deck or bunk of our choice for a nice long siesta.

Because of the unrelieved heat of the lava flow which we will visit this afternoon, we won't be disembarking until 4:00. But, luckily, we won't have to fight the hordes as the cruise liner steamed out during lunch. They have no idea what they'll be missing. Juan confirms that the smaller boats are the only way to truly see Galapagos. He has also recommended a couple of islands for us to see next time considering our interest in birds. Definitely Daphne Major will be on the list based on what he told us about the population of pajaros and how they nest in the craters.

A long lazy siesta for everyone and then a short panga ride to the lava field across the channel on Santiago. Juan was just like a little boy seeing animals of all kinds in the contorted formations of lava. He capered about pointing out lizards and fish and submarines. The landscape is just as beautiful as I remember and just as difficult to capture in pictures. We were very glad to be out in the cooler part of the afternoon because Juan thought we could probably fry an egg on the lava. (Not quickly, but eventually.) We heard goats and were able to spot two on the mountainside.

Juan had us lie down on a large flatter area to feel the heat and rough terrain as a back massage. It was very comfortable. We also explored the cave we had seen last time and found some small hard mutes and a few feathers and bones, but no real evidence of owl occupation. We made our way over to an area where the older lava, much rustier, met the new. You could see where a river of the new lava had finally stopped oozing over the old like thick icing on a cake.

A small area of trees nearby hosted a few birds and Juan enticed a mockingbird to his feet with that kissing sound he makes on his hand. We made our way slowly back over the lava fields, pointing out snakes and birds and other characters in the lava. The sun was just at that angle, right before sunset, when the light is warm and wonderful, accentuating the bumps and crevices into wonderfully contorted shapes. We had had a dry landing directly onto the lava, but the tide had changed so we made our way over to the sandy beach and had a wet departure.

A hammock had been strung between the foremast and the windlass which I had claimed during siesta and found even more exciting when we were underway. As wonderful as the food has been, too much of a good thing is still too much and Patti, Bill and I all felt queasy or uncomfortable enough to pass on la cena. Bill retired to his room as soon as the dinner bell rang and PLP and I remained topside, me on my back, stargazing, she sitting up. We rode the significant swells until everyone returned from dinner (which apparently was ham, cheese, and onion pizza) and then until everyone retired for the night. I was feeling better and was able to read myself to sleep with no trouble.

To Fernandina & Isabella

Bartolomé & Santiago

(click for larger image)