03/13/00 Monday - We had set our alarm clocks for 5:30 hoping to repeat the experience of last time which was to watch the captain bring the boat on through the opening in the caldera to the bay inside, This requires lining up a couple of lights just right and then following that line in. But our capitan was efficient and we all woke at 4:45AM when the movement of the boat stabilized, the motor stopped, and the anchor chain roared out. We were here. Two other boats also in the area and a 3rd one arrived shortly after.

Much more crowded than the 1st time we were here, but we still manage to have plenty of time by ourselves in most of the places where it's important. We had a pleasant hour watching the birds, reliving memories and watching the double-finned sharks (rays, actually) who were cruising fairly close to the boat, before breakfast. Breakfast was the usual plus fried eggs and bread. I made an egg sandwich with some of the aji (hot sauce) - great way to start the day.

We were the 2nd boatload on shore today and spent a long time just within the first 100 yds looking at the various shells, birds, etc. Many more red-footed boobies than I remember from last time and many many downy babies in every red mangrove we find. Juan's favorite island offers unique terrain, spectacular views from the cliffs with the frigate birds right at eye-level, many birds and good snorkeling. I confess that I remember this island fondly as well and no less so now.

We returned to the small beach and the panga brought us our snorkel gear. We donned our masks and fins and did the backward shuffle into the surf. Only saw a few thing we hadn't see before, but I'm still impressed with the colors, sizes, varieties, and numbers of fish I see. We counted sea cucumbers as new and discovered just how difficult a strong current can be to fight. Back on the boat for a refreshing glass of orange Tang (how strangely welcoming that stuff is) and a rest before lunch. Lolled on the deck until the bell rang then enjoyed sea bass lasagna, green beans and bacon, and a salad of iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, and hearts of palm (palmettos). Dessert was a yummy tart lemon pudding topped w/a maraschino cherry and with a side of Ritz crackers. Very surprising combination of flavors, but it worked. Both Bill and I found the taste reminiscent of key lime pie.

Another siesta until 3:00 when we head over to Prince Philip's Steps and the other side of the island. We first toured the cliff side to find fur sea lions. We saw 3 before heading to the steps. Just as steep as I remember, we got to the top hot and sweaty. Just the way we like to start a late afternoon walk. So many red-footed and masked boobies. I didn't remember that this island was so populated. They're everywhere. And frigate birds, and doves, and mockingbirds and storm petrels and red-billed tropic birds. And the noise! We could hardly converse.

We spent a lot of time scanning the lava field between the path and the cliff hoping to catch a glimpse of a short-eared owl like we saw last time. We got to the end of the trail and halfway back and had despaired of spotting one when we noticed a clump of fellow tourists up ahead had stopped and were looking off the side of the trail. And there, not more than 25' from the trail, was an owl! It had successfully captured dinner, a storm petrel, and was clutching it in one foot and waiting for the hubbub to subside before dining. We sat for at least 45 minutes while the rest of the island's occupants streamed by and away. Eventually the bird began to plume the petrel. I know most of us took at least one roll of film of the bird. I hope some good ones come of it. We had to leave the island by 6:00 and we didn't want to disturb the bird any longer so we reluctantly left. Success!! Mother is happy. Juan told us that the generic word for owl is 'lechusa'

Back down the steps and back to the boat only to run out of fuel just 100 ft from the boat. Prospero switched out fuel tanks and we arrived to miniature pizzas (Wonder bread, fresh tomatoes, cheese and oregano, toasted) and lemonade. Relaxed on deck till dinner and spotted both a handkerchief-sized golden ray lazily flying around the boat and a small green sea turtle off to port. Patti still feeling a little punky, but determined to make a good showing at dinner, especially since the rest of us will be having shrimp and special arrangements will be made for her.

Dinner: a magnificent paella with pork, chicken, shrimp, rice and veggies, a new potato, onion, tomato and red pepper salad, followed by flan. Mother's and D's toilet is still not working and Big Juan was working away on it which meant that the parents joined us up on deck for a little longer than usual. We watched the crew haul up the anchor and set off for Bartolomé. The swells were such that the capitan had the rest of the crew put up the mainsail. It was fascinating even in the dark which made it a more difficult endeavor I'm sure. The moon is half full (half empty?) and is amazingly bright. We can see our shadows with no trouble. Shortly after we retired to bed. No seasickness tonight, just sound sleep.

To Bartolomé

Genovesa

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