03/09/00 Thursday - We arrived early at Española, around 3:00 am, so everyone was allowed several hours of peaceful sleep before we rose. Many boats waiting to launch many passengers and we want to be first since the animals are not disturbed by others before us. Breakfast is the usual course of cereal, fruit, milk and juice followed this morning by french toast (no syrup).

We scurried to be the first group on the island and landed about 7:15. As usual Juan had to precede us up the walkway clapping his hands to clear the way of lolling sea lions. We went the reverse of the way we had previously gone on this island and saw the blowhole toward the beginning. They no longer allow you down actually next to the hole which is too bad for Bill. There were also almost no blue-footed boobies in comparison to the hundreds we'd seen on our previous visit, but apparently the weather is too warm at this point and they've gone elsewhere.

We saw many finches and couldn't take enough pictures of the colorful green and red marine iguanas. As usual, first to land and last to leave (almost) and we motored immediately over to Gardner Bay (NE side of island) and anchored close to one of the mammoth cruise ships. We had an hour to kill before lunch so we threw on our snorkeling gear and took a quick ride over to the nearby cliffs to view the underwater sights. When we surfaced the cruise liner had turned tail so we were alone on our side of the bay.

Lunch was swiss steak with a yummy potato, chicken, pea, carrot, onion and green pepper goulash. Also had salad and yummy chocolate coconut ice-creamy mousse stuff for dessert. (Ate mine and half of Debbie's). A leisurely afternoon on the boat (I napped) until 3:00 when we launched for the big beautiful beach. We walked along it trying to be careful not to step on any rocks which were disguised as sleeping sea lions. Superior white coral sand with the texture of flour. We enjoyed watching the ghost crabs scuttle hurriedly back into their holes as we approached.

We called the panga back after our stroll to motor us to the nearby volcanic outcropping and we snorkeled for a long time then swam back to shore. Spent another hour on the beach enjoying the waning light and the azure waters before our return to the boat. More lovely persimmon juice upon our return with crackers, chips and chocolate! The crew had been periodically pulling in large fish from a line slung off the stern and we had the fruits of their labors for dinner tonight: a lovely amberjack in a peanut sauce, rice, a corn, cucumber and green bean salad with a magnificent pineapple upside down cake for dessert.

We retired to the deck to watch the stars and the captain joined us to point out constellations and chat as well as we could about the boat and the Galapagos in general. During our post-dinner discussions, Juanito indicated that the captain had agreed to a little detour which would take us first to an island (Champion) off of Floreana early the next morning to see if we could spot a different species of mockingbird which may only be visible to us there. This means a slightly earlier rising so we will meet at 5:45 am on deck with binoculars in hand.

To Floriana

Española Photos

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